Here's how to get those Athearn doors to go on the car easier and slide better.

There are four ejector pin marks on the back of the door from the molding. They frequently are rough and have flash. Trim or file these off until they're smooth. Then check the two small retainers at the door bottom, which fit over the door track. They often have flash inside where the track goes through. Remove it with a small file or pointed hobby knife. Also check and remove any small flash on the door top.

To assemble the door to the car, slide the retainers over the bottom track but leave the top free. Start it on the track at the right end. There may also be flash to remove here.

Slide the door into position at the opening. Then bend the door slightly until the door top snaps into the top guide. This is less likely to scratch paint if the door back still has any flash. Test how it slides. If it's harder than you want, repeat any or all the above. Otherwise, run and enjoy.

I've mentioned before about using a #2-56 tap to thread the truck screw holes in Athearn car bodies for easy assembly. It saves on elbow grease and reduces the chance of splitting the screw boss.

While you have the tap in your hand, also thread the hole in the end for the brake wheel. This hole, or the brake wheel post, seems to vary in size from one kit to another. Some of them press right in while others won't go. Threading this undersize hole will make the brake wheel press in and hold without the need for glue.

Rusty Spike Vol 30 #3 Summer 2000

Assembling handrails can sometimes be a real problem, especially if you want to paint them first. You have to figure out how to hold them, then get them assembled without scraping off the paint in the process. Here's a way to solve both problems. Assemble the handrails first.

On diesels, insert the stanchions on the wire and into the holes in the body. You may want to drill out the holes for an easier fit, but still tight enough to hold without glue. Square up each stanchion to the wire, and apply a small dab of super glue. Do this with each, and let the assembly dry.

On Athearn tank cars, the only glue needed is where the wire goes into the ladder. You may need to bend the wire rail a little if it's out of shape.

Then remove the assembled handrails and stick the wire ends into styrofoam or modeling clay to hold while painting. Leave enough sticking out of the holder to allow painting the visible part. Paint the assemblies and leave them in the holder until dry. Then take them out, put them back on the model after it's painted, and you're done.

If you ever need a supply of shafts and bearings for a special project, here's a good way to get them without a lot of searching or expense.

The racks of K & S brass tubing in most hobby supply stores is the source. Each size of brass tubing is a slip fit into the next size. Simply pick the size for your axle, shaft, or whatever, then also get the next larger size. Cut the small size to length with a Moto-Tool or tubing cutter (or hobby saw). Cut a few short pieces of the larger size for the bearings. Deburr all pieces for a smooth slip fit.

Slip the bearing pieces onto the shaft and locate into the project. Once each bearing is located, fasten in position. ACC glue works well for small sizes, but don't get any on the shaft. If you should get glue in the bearings, remove the brass pieces and heat with a soldering iron or torch and the glue will vaporize.

After the glue sets, each bearing will be aligned due to the shaft, and you can pull the shaft out for further work. If alignment is not right, simply break the glue joints, adjust, and glue again. When ready to run, put a drop of Labelle gear lube on each bearing and you're ready to go.