In earlier articles, I have talked about the judging areas of Construction, (how well the model is built), Detail, (how complex is the model), and Conformity, (how true to life is the model). In this article we are going to talk about the Finish of the model. This refers to how well the model is painted and how well decals or lettering has been added to the model. Many of today's model kits come with great paint jobs and super lettering, but the kind of finish that can be achieved with your own paint job and decals, is still the mark of an outstanding model. Also if you want to add details such as hand rails, grab irons, or etched walkways, the best way to do this, is to an unpainted model.
Painting a model and getting a good paint job is sometimes
the greatest challenge to finishing off a model. A good
paint job is best done in a paint booth which helps to draw
fumes away from the modeler and also helps to provide a
dust and lint free painting environment. Of the two kinds of
paint, solvent based and water based, the water based is
safer in regards to fumes. This paint still creates a dust
as it dries in the air and it is best not to breathe in
this dust. The solvent based paint is even a greater
health risk as its fumes can cause damage to your nervous system.
When a model is judged in the paint area, a judge will look for paint problems such as paint runs or pools of paint which were applied too heavily. A judge will also look to see if the color of the paint is correct for that model. A model that has more than one color of paint which requires masking one of the colors will demonstrate more work and will earn higher points. The judge will look to see if the finish at the masking line is sharp or jagged from the masking material. If areas not always seen, are painted, it will help the score of the model. Even though we rarely see the bottom of a railroad car or locomotive, it looks better if it is painted.
Decals are what really finishes off a model. I was once very intimidated about trying to apply decals, but now, I find it is one of the most satisfying parts of building a model. It is when the decals are added that the model starts to really start looking like the real thing. Even with the high level of technology in screen and pad printing, using your own decals allows you to create, "one of a kind," models with different numbers from those provided by most kit manufacturers. It is important to follow the decal manufacturer's instructions in applying and finishing decals as this helps them to stick to the model and blend into the paint. Most decals require a decal solvent to really help the decal to snuggle down or fit tight even around box car framing or rivets. Also decals will look their best if a dullcoat finish is used to help reduce seeing the edges of the decal sheets on the model.
The last thing to be evaluated in the area of finish has to do
with giving the model the appearance of age, or having been
left out in the weather. Weathering a model is not required to
earn a higher score, but it can earn more points if properly
done, but it can also subtract points if not done well. The
process called weathering usually involves using paints or
chalk to create the look of rust, dirt, or grime on the model.
Sometimes, you may not want to make a model look, "old," or,
"used," after building a new model, but it is one of the steps
that can make the model look like the real thing.
I hope that some of our Central Indiana modelers will bring some of their work to the September meet in Greenfield on September 28th. Even if you do not bring an entry, come by the judging area to see some of the nice work done by local modelers.
Thomas H. Cain
[Rusty Spike - Vol. 27 No. 4, Sept-Oct 1997]
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